Eastern White Cedar Shingles Installation Guide
Make sure you keep the shingles covered and dry before and during installation. Keep the shingle boxes off the ground and on the pallet.
BEFORE YOU INSTALL
The specifications in this guide apply to the installation of factory-stained white cedar shingles to the exterior wall surfaces only. Do not install defective material. Michigan Prestain will only replace defective material if notified prior to installation. For more details, contact us.
Consult your local building code for proper preparation and installation requirements. At a minimum, we recommend that the shingles be installed over some sort of ventilation to enhance your siding’s durability. Failure to comply with local building codes will void any warranty.
Use a rust-resistant fastener (staples or nails), 1 1/4” to 1 1/2” long. The fastener must penetrate the underlayment at least Φ”. Use two fasteners per shingle. Locate each fastener 3/4” from each edge and 1” above the butt line of the overlapping shingle.
You can cut the shingles with a saw or with a utility knife.
This is a prefinished shingle. Every cut end will need to be coated in order to maintain the warranty and ensure performance. Touch up cut shingles prior to installing them. A small brush is recommended for better touch-up control. 5” exposure is the maximum exposure recommended. A box covers approximately 25 sq feet with a five-inch exposure.
PREPARING TO INSTALL—GENERAL RULES
1. It is best to work from the bottom to the top.
2. Calculate the number of courses to be installed by measuring the surface area to be covered and dividing it by the desired exposure.
3. Adjust the exposure to produce even courses.
4. Leave at least 4” for the top course of the wall and doors and at the top and bottom of windows.
5. Draw lines on the wall or use a board to align shingles horizontally. If you use a board, like a furring strip, to gauge the exposure, mark the proper exposure up the entire board. Use the board as reference during the installation process.
6. Leave a keyway space of at least 1/8” between shingles. The edges must not touch.
7. Use 2 fasteners per shingle at about 3/4” from each edge, and at 1” above the buttline of the overlapping shingle.
8. The shingles come in random widths. Joints of successive courses must always be offset by at least 1 1/2”. Never allow joints from any 3 consecutive courses to line up.
9. Clearances are very important to ensure the performance of the shingle and maintain its warranty. The butt line of the starter course must have a minimum 6”
clearance with the ground ȋor according to your local building code). Also allow 1” clearance from adjacent horizontal structures and 2” from roof shingles.
1. Install the first row with a double course of shingles and offset the seams at least 1 1/2”, So that joints do not line up. Keep the bottom course at least ͳ” from the top of the
foundation. Extend the finished course 1/2” beyond the bottom course to allow water to drip off of it.
2. Install subsequent courses in a single layer according to the determined exposure. Keep the courses straight and level and the keyways consistent.
3. There are two typical ways to finish the top of a wall.
a. The first way is to install molding to the wall and butt the shingles to it, remembering that the final course needs to have a minimum of a Ͷ” exposure. Leave a 1/2” gap between the molding and the soffit for air flow.
b. The second way is to apply a fascia over the top of the shingle. Butt 1”x wood strip next to the soffit for a spacer, and then apply the fascia to the furring strip. Leave a 1” gap between the last shingle and the spacer for air flow.
FINISHING DETAIL – WEAVING THE OUTSIDE CORNERS
The most common outside corner is made by lacing the shingles—alternating the exposed corner joint with each row.
1. Take a shingle that is wide enough to extend past the corner. Cut it cleanly with a utility knife. Nail it in place.
2. Using the installed corner shingle as a guide line, cut another shingle so it is flush with the face of the other.
3. Nail the lower corner of the shingle with a small rust resistant ring shank nail.
Pre-drilling and/or blunting the end of the nail might be required.
OUTSIDE CORNER BOARDS
Corner boards are an easy way to finish a corner.
1. Cut the width of the one side so that each side of the corner is equal when overlapped.
2. Apply caulk at the base of the board where it meets the wall.
3. Butt the shingles to the board and on the caulk.
Flashing should always be used behind the shingles for all inside corners. Shingles may either be butted against a square wood strip using the method described for the outside
corners or they also can be fitted into each other.
1. Horizontal rows will butt into the window trim per the instructions regarding outside corner boards.
2. Where the row meets the bottom of the window, make sure that the vertical joints must align with the bottom corners of the window.
3. Glue and nail each corner of the shingle installed below the window. Butt the shingle to the bottom molding of the window. Pre-drilling is recommended for
these face nails.
4. Window flashing that extends beyond the trim is required for the window header.
5. The shingle must be spaced 1/4” to 1/2” off the flashing to ensure proper drainage.
Finishing under gables require special attention because the triangular shapes have visible nails.
1. Install horizontal rows as described above.
2. Cut the ends to fit the slope of the gable.
3. Glue and nail into each of the corners.
General Guidelines for Installation and Finishing
Preparation & Storage
- Check Local Building Codes: Before starting, consult your local building code for specific cedar shingle installation requirements.
- Initial Inspection: Before installing, inspect the product thoroughly. If it’s not satisfactory, don’t proceed with the installation. Note that defects reported post-installation cannot be held as the supplier’s responsibility.
- Storage Conditions:
- Store the shingles flat in a well-supported manner, ensuring they are under dry cover.
- Ensure the storage area is well-ventilated and unheated.
- If storing on concrete, place a vapor barrier beneath the materials and elevate them. This is crucial to prevent moisture absorption.
- Store the shingles on their original pallet to keep them elevated from the ground or cement.
- Always use slip sheeting between shingle layers to prevent sticking. Replace any slip sheeting if restocking.
- At the end of each workday, cover any uninstalled shingles to protect them from environmental factors.
- Installation Timing: It’s recommended to install the shingles as soon as they’re received to maintain their quality.
- Material Inspection: Before installation, inspect each shingle. Remove and cut out any defects or imperfections to ensure a seamless finish.
- Seal Cuts: If you’ve made cuts or alterations to any shingle, make sure to seal the raw wood areas before installation. Be cautious: applying touch-up to the face of the product may cause uneven spotting. The supplier won’t be responsible for improper touch-ups.
- Nail Head Finishing: If you need to touch up nail heads, utilize a Q-Tip or a very small brush. Improper nail head touch-ups that result in spotting won’t be the responsibility of the supplier.
- Nailing: Always utilize corrosion-resistant nails. Acceptable choices include hot-dipped galvanized, aluminum, or stainless steel maze nails.
- Follow Specific Instructions: Depending on the type of cedar shingle product you’re using, refer to the specific installation guide provided:
- Red Cedar Shingles Installation
- White Cedar Shingles Installation
- Cedar Valley Shingle Panel Installation
- Red Cedar Siding Installation
- Factory Finished Installation Instructions
Cautionary Note on Wood Products
Be aware of the natural properties and potential risks associated with wood products. Ensure all safety precautions are taken during installation and maintenance.
For a comprehensive understanding and specific details, always refer to the product’s official manual or contact the supplier directly.
Wood Products Caution
Sawing, sanding, or machining wood products can produce wood dust which can cause a flammable or explosive hazard. Wood dust may cause lung, upper respiratory tract, eye, and skin irritation. Some wood species may cause dermatitis and / or respiratory allergic effects. The international agency for research on cancer (IARC) has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen in humans.
- Avoid dust contact with an ignition source.
- Wood dust clean-up and disposal activities should be accomplished in a manner to minimize the creation of airborne dust.
- Avoid breathing dust.
- Avoid dust contact with eyes and skin.
FIRST AID: If inhaled, remove to fresh air. In case of contact flush eyes / skin with water. If irritation persists, call a physician. For additional information or a copy of the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for this product contact Michigan PreStain.