- Ensure that walls have a code-approved moisture barrier positioned directly behind panels.
- Double wrap both inside and outside corners with moisture barrier to prevent moisture infiltration.
Using Flush Corners:
- Set flush corners with each row of panels. Do not install all corners first.
- Attach corners using one corrosion-resistant ring shank siding nail per corner side, driven in the “Nail Zone” (Figure 1), ½” in from each edge.
- Apply the provided marked corner units in order A, B, C, D (repeating). Begin with any piece, ensuring the order is retained to avoid disrupting the “Boston Weave.”
- Thoroughly caulk the corner plywood edge.
- Trim panel end and push it against the caulked corner edge.
- Nail the panel according to instructions below.
- Plan the panel layout from the lowest building elevation.
- Hold panels 6” off grade and 1” off decks, 2” off roofs, maintaining a tight fit to window or door trim.
- Apply panels over ½” nailable shear sheathing fastened onto studs (or equivalent), with a maximum spacing of 16″ O.C.
- Utilize a 6D to 8D corrosion-resistant ring shank siding nail to meet code requirements.
- Apply a code-approved moisture barrier directly behind the panels.
- Panels should span at least one stud spacing, staggering vertical end joints to prevent landing on the same stud.
- Around windows, doors, or penetrations, cut panels to fit snugly and caulk the joint between the panel’s plywood backer and trim.
- Adhere to Best Construction Practices for unaddressed issues.
“Nail Zone” Area:
- Each panel features dual lines scribed across the top as a nailing area guide (Figure 1).
- Drive all nails BETWEEN these lines and into the stud for optimal wind uplift resistance and concealed fastening.
- Drive one 6-8D corrosion-resistant ring shank siding nail every 16 inches on center into studs.
- Nail panels inside the “Nail Zone” (Figure 1), STARTING ½ inch in from one edge, every 16” O.C. across the panel, ending ½ inch from the other end.
- If either end does not land on a stud, add a second nail ½” in from the edge.
- Avoid nailing from both edges towards the center.
- Ensure nail heads are flush with the panel’s surface. Avoid overdriving.
- In cases of wall deflections causing panel lifting, drive additional small-headed stainless wood siding nails 2” from the panel bottom to tighten it against the wall.
- When nailing to ½” or greater sheathing, panel ends do not have to join on studs. However, nails holding panels should be driven into studs whenever possible.
- Nailing inside the “Nail Zone” is crucial for proper panel installation.
- Utilize flush-mounting corner units in alternating widths (A, B, C, D) to eliminate vertical corner lines.
- Begin each course with any letter and continue in order up the corner with each row.
- Avoid setting all corners first; instead, set each row as you progress to allow for adjustments.
- You can change the order or omit a letter, but do not repeat the same letter.
- Nail a 5/4″ X 5/4” wood trim piece into the inside corner and caulk where the plywood backer will butt against it.
- Cut the panel end square and place it against the strip. Prevent caulk from squeezing onto the panel face.
- When panels are cut horizontally or diagonally to fit gable ends, windows, or eaves, fit sections snugly against trim.
- Caulk with quality sealant along trim where the plywood backer edge will meet it.
Cutting around Windows & Doors:
- When panels are cut to fit around windows or doors, ensure a snug fit against casing or trim.
- Caulk the joint between the panel and casing (or trim) where the cut plywood edge butts against the trim. Avoid face caulking.
Starting Above Grade:
- All panels must be at least 6 inches above grade per code.
- Use rot-resistant trim or pressure-treated lumber and proper flashing for areas below 6 inches.
Roof to Wall Transitions:
- Install panels a minimum of 2 inches above any roofing.
- Use proper roof-to-wall flashing at this transition in compliance with building codes.
- Seal any diagonal cuts to prevent moisture absorption.
Panel Installation over Horizontal Projections:
- Install panels at least ¼ inch above exterior wainscoting, ledges, frieze boards, or decks.
- Employ code-approved flashing between projections and shingle panels.
- Seal horizontal or diagonal cut edges with weather-resistant caulk, coating, or sealant to prevent moisture absorption.
Re-Using Small Sections:
- Re-use panel sections without factory end joints as long as both ends are caulked.
Prefinish Panels Before Installation:
- If sealing, staining, or painting Cedar Valley panels, do so BEFORE installation.
- The shingles are kiln-dried and ready for finishing.
- Installing raw panels can adversely affect coating adhesion.
- Contact the factory for finish options and recommendations.
In the event Cedar Valley’s published instructions conflict or contradict local building codes, please contact the factory for clarification. If no local codes exist, refer to the I.C.C. residential building codes and these instructions for guidance.
Note: This guide provides an overview of Cedar Valley panel installation. Always refer to specific product instructions and consult professionals when necessary.